Dark knight costume templates




















About 10 minutes into that, I knew they weren't going to look as good as I wanted them to. I figured pre-made gloves would be much better for the specific details and materials Batman's gloves should be made of. I searched eBay for mechanic gloves, gardening gloves, racing gloves, leather gloves. There were some that had somewhat similar details, but none were that good. Just as I was about to give up the search, I came upon these. Perfect Dark Knight gloves.

Sans the knuckle pieces, but still, extremely close to what the originals look like. For the knuckle pieces, I got a plastic egg tray from the thrift store and cut them up, added some foamie details around the edges, and then glued them on.

I'm ashamed, but I'll admit it; I didn't even try to make the belt from scratch. I knew there was already a decent pre-made costume version, so I bought that straight away. A quick cover of gold spray paint to make it more metallic. Additional silver and black details painted on. For the leg armor, I again traced outlines of the pieces from an image of the suit, cut them out, traced outlines on foamie sheets, and cut those out. Then the fun of hot gluing them onto my legs! Just on top of black tights and mesh.

Not too bad, but does get a little hot at times. Especially squirting hot glue right onto your crotch. An underlayer of clothing or two helped absorb that heat before my skin did.

I initially made a mannequin for this sort of work, but in the end decided that gluing the armor onto my real legs would make for more accurate form.

The under-armor mesh is a specific fabric that I didn't find in any local store, so I ordered some off of eBay here. I also had to figure out a good method to bind them together at the seams. Hot glue was too fragile, and had no stretch. Same with superglue. Didn't have a sewing machine, and certainly wasn't going to sew it by hand. Liquid latex proved to be the best bind.

It was stretchy, and incredibly strong. I can try to tear the seam apart as hard as I can, and it doesn't weaken at all. Flipping the seam inside-out made for a smoother seam on the outside. More hot glue to add the armor onto a tight black shirt and the mesh. I glued the shoulder armor onto the neck piece, and also glued the elbow pieces of the gauntlets onto the sleeves. This would make all of the upper body, except for the mask and gloves, all in one piece, easy to slip on and off.

Speaking of slipping on and off, this would be another point where flexible foamie sheets are good; when putting the shirt on, it folds and wrinkles all over the chest. But once I slip my arms in, I can then pull the rest of the shirt down to my hips and flatten the armor, giving me critical "wiggle room".

A zipper for the back of the shirt would be a great idea. I didn't make back armor, since it would be covered by a cape anyway. The cape was a black bed sheet that I added Velcro pieces onto, which would attach to other Velcro pieces on the underside of the neck armor. I had initially bought just a scrap black fabric, but the bed sheet looked much better. There wasn't too much painting required for the suit. Some gray paint on chest armor, some black spray paint on the armor, and some protective clear coat finish.

I had initially planned to make the mouthpiece on top of a paintball mask, but eventually decided it would be easier and more accurate if I just sculpted it from scratch. So I did. Then, like Batman's mask, made a plaster mold, and cast it out of latex. For the mouthpiece, with all the little air holes, I drilled holes into a piece of the Tupperware container, and glued that in. Then I had to fit it to Kevin's head.

To make the mask easily removable, I decided to make the mouth piece and the cheek pieces separate, attachable via Velcro. The cheek pieces, made from foamie sheets, were attached to an over-the-head piece of cloth as a template.

I trimmed it down and re-sized it until it was the right fit and shape on his head. Then I cut a long piece of foamie sheet for the middle of the head, and added some tubes onto the sides.

Sometimes it stinks to be dedicated to details. Looking at high-resolution official pictures of Bane, I noticed that some of the tubes had a specific texture. It wasn't just ribbed, it was like a diamond pattern.

While you can use scissors, I had much more success with the heat knife. The pieces shown in the picture show a couple of the things that I needed to do. The brown foam is craft foam and worked well for the batman symbol. You can also see that I had to do some extra stuff to make the chest piece give me some extra pectoral power.

I had to fold and form the form to fit to my chest and add extra bulk. I used what I learned in this instructable to do that. Once cut out, the designs need to be cut into them. This has to be done before the shaping as it will look much better. This process was done on the ribs, legs, and cuffs.

This is where some artistic ability is required. Beyond cutting lines into the foam, there are several pieces especially the abs that need to be shaped in order improve overall look and believe-ability. Again I used my dremel for this. Take it slowly as the dremel can quickly dig into the foam and really mess up your piece. On the obliques I shaved down the front and back of the foam. You can only see the front carving in the pictures. I did this so it could be form fitting without big ridges.

The biceps had to be smoothed down around the edges for the same reason. I also did a neck piece later on. This was done without any template and totally free hand. Sorry I don't have a template for you. I carved the foam after heating it to make it look like the muscles of the neck.

If you spray the EVA foam directly with spray paint, the paint will crack and look bad fairly quickly. Plasti-Dip prevents this from happening. Make sure to get a solid coat of Plasti-Dip sprayed onto each of pieces of armor. It doesn't need to be on the back of the armor.

Let this dry fully as outlined on the spray can. Again, I don't have any pictures of this process. It is kind of hands on literally. Also, the pictures here are shown a year after completing the project.

I just wanted to show what they look like after they are formed. To heat fit the foam, I heated my oven to degrees. I then placed the piece of foam to be formed into the oven from anywhere from a minute to 2 minutes. Watch it carefully. Too long and the foam begins to shrink. I had to make a few pieces again because they shrunk. When they are ready, they are quite flexible. Take the foam out and then hold it into place of where it belongs.

I had my wife help me with this because with several pieces needed more than just my hands. Hold them there for a minimum of a minute, until they have cooled enough to keep it's form. A heat gun can be used to make any corrections.

Now spray all the pieces with a black coat. I did about 3 coats for each part. This takes some time with the bigger, curved pieces legs and arms.

This was the biggest challenge of the project. I got on many different costuming websites to see what others had done to attach foam to the fabric. Many people were saying to glue it directly to the suit, though there wasn't a lot of agreement on which type of glue was best.

As Halloween approached I got more and more worried that I wasn't going to be able to make this project work. I tried the glue approach. As can be seen in the picture, it didn't really work. The setting time for most fabric glues is at least an hour, usually more like 4. In order to really have the pieces glued in the right place, I would need to be wearing it and waiting. I tried it with my chest piece.

Strapped it on with belts to keep it tight. Knight Helmet Template. Here are a number of highest rated Knight Helmet Template pictures on internet.

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