You will want to start bricking your wall on the end that will be a focal point because that end will have full pieces and true kerfs half pieces. As you come to the other end of the wall you will be able to determine the cuts that need made there.
If installing with bag thinset, mix thinset mortar per the manufacturers instructions. Using a mortar mixing tool and a heavy duty drill will make this job much easier. Only mix up enough thinset as you can easily use before it begins to cure. Mix up smaller batches at first until you begin to see how much you can use at one time. Choose a bottom corner of your wall at the wood ledge you installed to begin troweling on adhesive.
Trowel on only as much adhesive as you can easily apply bricks to before it begins setting up. Begin pushing bricks into the adhesive. You may choose to back butter bricks to help with adhesion. You will want to press the bricks firmly into the adhesive with some pressure to make sure you have a good bond. Note: When using dowel rods. Once the adhesive has hardened, dowelrods may be difficult to pull out because of the weight of the bricks and because they may stick to excess adhesive. This is especially true on the lower part of the wall.
To help remedy this we recommend not positioning dowel rods at the back of the joint but instead more toward the front. This picture shows how to place dowel rods to minimize difficulty in removal. You can see the cut kerf brick at the walls end. Continue applying thinset adding rows of brick until you come to the top of your wall. Once at the top you may need to cut your final row to make it fit.
One option you may want to try is to install a soldier course vertical row of bricks at the top of your wall. This may be especially desirable if your final row is going to be a thin strip of bricks.
After the adhesive has set up to the point that it will hold the weight of the bricks usually the next day carefully remove the dowel rods and spacers. Once the wall is installed and the dowel rods and spacers have been removed, it is a good idea to vacuum off any dust and debris before grouting. Because Royal Thin Bricks are tumbled they come out of the cartons dusty. Vacuuming the bricks will help keep any contamination from getting in the grout.
At this point in the process it is time to grout your Royal Thin Brick wall using sanded grout. When you join you get additional benefits. By registering, you agree to the Terms of Service and Privacy Policy. Lost your password? Please enter your email address.
You will receive a link and will create a new password via email. Sorry, you do not have permission to ask a question, You must log in to ask a question. Join now! Before you do anything, you will need to measure the area you need. It can be annoying to run out halfway through, and an expensive mistake to over-order. As a rule of thumb, there are 60 bricks per square metre for a single skin wall half brick wall and bricks per square metre for a one brick thick solid wall.
If you need to match to existing brickwork, use our brick matching service or if it doesn't need to match, just ask us to find you a brick with our free brick selection service. We'll get you the right brick delivered at the right price when you need it, so you can be confident in your wall before it's even built! You can then get the rest of the materials from your local DIY store. One of the most important parts of a brick wall is the foundation. This is the support for your wall, and the trench size will depend on the width and height of your masonry wall.
For reference, you will need a half a metre deep trench for a brick wall up to one metre in height. Make sure you check the measurements before digging as a solid trench is essential to prevent your wall from collapsing.
Drive wooden stakes to find the optimal height for your bricks in your trench. Spread the stakes two to four feet apart depending on the length of your wall and ensure they are completely level. The first row of bricks should sit flush in the foundation.
Fill the foundation with concrete, making sure to keep it level and fill to the top of the stakes. Leave it to dry for 2 - 3 days. Once you have your foundation, you need to set up gauging rods to ensure your brickwork is consistently level. The easiest way to do this is to get a piece of timber and cut it to the height of your finished wall.
Next, mark 65mm lines if using standard sized bricks to determine where each row also known as a course should be. Make sure these are freestanding and in the ground at either end of your masonry wall. Set up a string line from one gauging rod to the other. This will be for your second row of bricks, as the first string will be sitting in the trench. Make sure the line is straight and level with no sag.
When in doubt, add a little bit extra mortar, as you will be pushing the brick down slightly. Use your trowel to lightly press into the mortar along the center line, leaving little intents. The mortar will look like little waves. Press the first brick into the mortar. Push down slightly, then use your level to check that the brick even with the ground. To do so, press the level up against the side of the brick and then check it with your string sting line.
Scrape any excess mortar down the line. You can use this mortar for the next bricks as long as it is free from contaminants. Lay mortar down for the next bricks. Once you're sure your first brick is set, lay down some mortar for the next few. You only want to work with bricks worth of mortar at a time. Butter the end of the next brick with mortar and press it into place.
Take a slab of mortar and coat the end of the brick that will be pushed up against the first brick. This is a very important step that ensures a strong bond between bricks. If you skip this and try to fill the mortar in between laid bricks, the joint will eventually fail. For best results, practice this several times on spare bricks before you move on to the real wall.
Use the level to ensure that the bricks are flush and at an even height, pushing on them lightly to make sure that they are perfect. Scrape away any excess mortar as you work. Use your trowel to scrape the mortar away and down onto the tarp or plywood at the base of the wall.
As long as that surface is kept clean, you can reuse the mortar for the next brick. Keep adding bricks until the row is finished.
Continue laying bricks down in this fashion -- mortar bottom and side, press in, check evenness with the level-- until your first row, or course, is complete. You can never check if the wall is level enough. You should be using your level and tape measure with almost every brick. Part 3. Move your guideline up to the next marker.
For the second row it should already be in place, but you need to remember to move the line each time you move up a row so that you know the height you have to hit. Cut a brick in half with a firm tap from the pointed end of a hammer. You can also use a bolster, which may make a cleaner cut.
Still, bricks are meant to break cleanly. Tap on the point you want to cut the brick with the back of a hammer until you see a crack, then hit this spot hard, once, to cut the brick in half. To do this, you'll start every other new row with half a brick. You don't need a perfectly clean, smooth cut. The rough edges will help hold the mortar. You do not want to make the next row right on top of the first one, so that the joints line up. Mortar and place the half brick, then place a full brick next it like normal.
Do this on both ends of the wall, so that each side has a half brick and a full brick in place. Mortar and place one full brick on top of your ends.
To help you stay level, you build the ends of the wall up a course higher than you're working on, making it appear like there are staircases on the ends of the wall. You then fill in the bottom row, build the sides up a little higher, then continue until you reach the top.
Your gauging rods should help you place the end bricks, as they will line up right with the marks planted at the end of your wall. Fill in the entire bottom row. Then repeat until the second row is done. Continue building your wall from the ends inward. You want to have the ends of your wall one course higher than the row you are currently working on.
This is especially important if the wall has pillars on either end. With each row, the process is the same. However, remember to use half-bricks every other row to ensure that the joints in each row are not perfectly lined up.
Move the guideline. Apply mortar. Press a brick into either end of the wall, using the guidelines and level to make sure they are at the right height. Do the same thing one row above the one you're currently working on.
Measure, mortar, and build the bottommost row, infill the courses. Repeat the process one row higher. Part 4. Try unique brick patterns for the top of the wall. Depending on what you built, you can finish your wall by turning or angling your bricks differently at any time.
Popular options include: Soldiering, or standing the bricks up so that they are up straight, like soldiers at attention. Headers are when the shortest side of the brick points out.
The top row of bricks is spun 90 degrees from the bottom one. Fill in any missing patches of mortar along the wall. Use your trowel to fill in any patches or gaps in the joints, making sure there is a nice, even amount of mortar holding your wall together.
Wait roughly minutes before continuing -- the mortar should be slightly hardened, but not set, before moving on. Use a brick jointer to indent the mortar professionally. Brick jointers are cheap little tools that help you get the professional, curved in joints on your wall.
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